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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.